How to read your CIBIL report - Step by step guide

by tanmay.deshpande 20 Jan 2026, 01:34 pm 1811 views 19 replies

After seeing so many confused posts about credit scores, I decided to write a detailed guide on how to actually READ your CIBIL report. Most people just check the score number, but the report has so much more important information.

I'm sharing this because I was confused too when I first got my report, and understanding it helped me improve my score from 680 to 785 in one year.

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How to Get Your Report

  • Go to CIBIL website (www.cibil.com) or use their app
  • Free report once a year, or pay ₹550 for instant access anytime
  • You can also check via Paytm, OneScore, etc. (they show CIBIL/Experian/Equifax)

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Understanding Your CIBIL Report - Section by Section

1. Personal Information Section

This shows your name, DOB, PAN, addresses, phone numbers, emails.
    What to check:
  • [YES] Is your name spelled correctly?
  • [YES] Are all addresses yours? (Old addresses are okay, but check for unknown ones)
  • [YES] PAN and DOB correct?

Why it matters: Errors here can cause report mixing with someone else's data. I once found an unknown Bangalore address on my report - raised dispute, got it removed.

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2. Account Information Section

This is the most important part. Shows all your credit accounts:
  • Credit cards
  • Loans (personal, home, car, education)
  • EMIs
  • For each account, you'll see:

    Account Type: Credit Card / Auto Loan / Personal Loan etc.

    Ownership: Individual / Joint / Guarantor

    Date Opened: When you got the card/loan

    Current Balance: How much you owe right now

    Sanctioned Amount / Credit Limit: Original loan amount or card limit

      Payment History (Last 36 months): This is CRITICAL - shows payment pattern with codes:
    • [YES] 000 or STD = Paid on time (good)
    • [NOTE] 030 = 30 days late
    • [NOTE] 060 = 60 days late
    • [NOTE] 090 = 90 days late
    • [NO] 090+ = More than 90 days late (very bad)
    • [LOCKED] XXX = No data for that month
    • SUB = Substandard account
    • DBT = Doubtful account
    • LSS = Loss account (worst - written off)

    Account Status: Active / Closed / Settled / Written-off

    ---

    3. Inquiry Section (Hard Inquiries)

    Shows every time you applied for credit and the bank checked your report.
      What you'll see:
    • Date of inquiry
    • Bank/NBFC name
    • Type (credit card, loan, etc.)

    Why it matters: Too many inquiries in short time = desperate for credit = lowers score. Each inquiry stays for 2 years but impact reduces after 6 months.

    Red flag: 5+ inquiries in 6 months

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    4. Score Summary

    Finally, the actual score (300-900 scale).
      Score ranges:
    • 300-549: Poor (high risk, very hard to get credit)
    • 550-649: Average (limited options, high interest rates)
    • 650-749: Good (most cards/loans accessible)
    • 750-900: Excellent (best rates, premium cards, instant approvals)

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    Key Metrics That Affect Your Score

    1. Payment History (35% of score)

    Most important factor. Even one 30-day late payment can drop score by 50-80 points.

    What I learned: Those "Days Past Due" (DPD) markers stay for 3 years but their impact reduces over time. A 2-year-old DPD hurts less than a recent one.

    2. Credit Utilization (30% of score)

    For credit cards: Outstanding balance ÷ Total credit limit
      Example:
    • Total credit limit: ₹2,00,000
    • Total outstanding: ₹1,40,000
    • Utilization: 70% (TOO HIGH)

    Ideal: Below 30%
    Acceptable: 30-50%
    Dangerous: 50%+

    Pro tip: Even if you pay full every month, high utilization can lower score. Pay BEFORE statement generation to show lower utilization.

    3. Credit Age (15% of score)

    How long you've had credit accounts.
      What helps:
    • Older accounts (keep your first credit card forever, even if you don't use it)
    • Average age of all accounts
      What hurts:
    • Closing old accounts
    • Only having new accounts

    4. Credit Mix (10% of score)

    Having different types of credit (secured + unsecured).
      Good mix example:
    • 2 credit cards (unsecured)
    • 1 car loan (secured)
    • 1 home loan (secured)
      Poor mix:
    • Only credit cards OR only loans

    5. Recent Credit (10% of score)

    Hard inquiries and new accounts.
      What hurts:
    • Multiple applications in short time
    • Many new accounts opened recently

    ---

    Common Report Errors to Watch For

    • Accounts you never opened - Identity theft or reporting error
    • Wrong payment status - Showing late when you paid on time
    • Closed accounts showing as active - Contact bank to update
    • Duplicate accounts - Same loan/card reported twice
    • Someone else's data mixed with yours - Name/PAN mismatch issues

    ---

    How to Dispute Errors

    • Login to CIBIL website
    • Go to "Dispute Center"
    • Select the account with error
    • Choose dispute reason
    • Upload proof (payment receipts, statements, etc.)
    • CIBIL contacts the bank/lender
    • Resolution in 30 days usually

    I disputed a wrongly reported late payment last year - bank acknowledged error, CIBIL updated in 25 days, score jumped 45 points.

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    Pro Tips From My Journey (680 → 785)

    • Check report every 3 months - Catch errors early
    • Pay credit card bills BEFORE statement date - Shows lower utilization
    • Never close old cards - Hurts credit age
    • Keep utilization under 30% - Even if you pay in full
    • Avoid multiple applications - Space them 3-6 months apart
    • Set up autopay - Never miss due dates
    • Maintain credit mix - Don't close loans early if score is a priority

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    Free vs Paid Report

      Free (once a year from CIBIL):
    • Basic score
    • Account details
    • Can dispute errors
      Paid (₹550/year):
    • Unlimited checks
    • Email alerts for changes
    • Score simulator
    • Personalized tips
      Alternatives:
    • OneScore app (free, shows Experian score)
    • Paytm (free CIBIL score, limited details)
    • BankBazaar (free Experian)

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    Common Myths Debunked

    [NO] Myth: Checking your own score lowers it
    [YES] Truth: Only HARD inquiries (when you apply for credit) lower score. Checking your own is SOFT inquiry, no impact.

    [NO] Myth: Closing unused cards improves score
    [YES] Truth: Actually HURTS score by reducing credit age and total available credit (increasing utilization %)

    [NO] Myth: Carrying a small balance helps score
    [YES] Truth: NO. Pay in full always. There's no benefit to paying interest.

    [NO] Myth: Income affects credit score
    [YES] Truth: CIBIL doesn't know your income. Score is only based on credit history.

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    When to Check Your Report

    • Before applying for any loan/card - Know where you stand
    • Every 3-6 months - Monitor for errors
    • After major credit events - Loan closure, new card, etc.
    • If rejected for credit - Understand why

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    Hope this helps! Happy to answer questions. Drop a comment if you want me to explain any specific part of the report.

      TL;DR:
    • Payment history (35%) and utilization (30%) matter most
    • Check report regularly for errors
    • Dispute mistakes immediately
    • Keep old accounts open
    • Pay in full, on time, every time
    • Don't obsess over the score number - focus on good credit habits
    2

    19 Comments

    This is amazing! The DPD codes part especially - I had no idea what those numbers meant. I have a few 030s from 2 years ago, now I know why my score is stuck at 720.

    0

    About the free vs paid thing: You can also get free reports from Experian and Equifax directly (once a year each). So you can check 3 different bureaus for free every year. Banks report to all 3, so sometimes you'll find errors in one that don't show in others.

    3

    The credit utilization tip about paying BEFORE statement generation is gold. I was at 78% utilization every month (but paying in full after statement). Changed to paying before statement date, utilization showed as 15%, score jumped from 701 to 748 in 3 months. Same spending, same payments, just timing changed.

    4
      I found 3 errors on my report after reading this:
    • A credit card I closed 2 years ago still showing active
    • Wrong credit limit on my HDFC card (showing ₹50k, actual is ₹1.5L) - making my utilization look terrible
    • An unknown loan inquiry from a bank I never applied to

    Starting dispute process today. Thanks OP!

    1
    aditya.singh · 24 Jan 2026, 04:55 am

    The dispute process works but takes FOREVER. I disputed a wrong late payment in January, got resolved in April (3 months, not 30 days as CIBIL claims). But it did get fixed, so persistence pays off.

    0

    Does anyone know if the free annual report shows the full 36 months payment history? Or do you need paid version for that? I'm seeing only 12 months on my free report.

    2

    Quick question: If I have one account showing 090 DPD from 3 years ago (was going through financial crisis), but perfect history since then, can I dispute it or do I just have to wait for it to age out?

    2

    Can you explain the 'Settled' vs 'Closed' status? I settled a personal loan (paid less than full amount after negotiation). It shows as 'Settled' on my report and my score is 580. Is this permanent damage?

    0

    The credit mix part is interesting. I only have credit cards (4 cards, total ₹5L limit). Should I take a small personal loan just to improve credit mix? Or is that overthinking?

    0

    The 'never close old cards' advice is tricky. I have my first card from 8 years ago (basic card, ₹500 annual fee, zero benefits). Should I really keep paying ₹500/year just for credit age? That's ₹4000 over 8 years wasted.

    3

    For the person asking about 'Settled' status: Unfortunately, 'Settled' is almost as bad as 'Written-off'. It means you didn't pay full amount. This stays on your report for 7 years and seriously hurts score. Banks see it as a major red flag. Only way forward is to build new positive history with other accounts, but that settled mark will haunt you for years.

    0

    PSA: OneScore app is genuinely free and unlimited. No need to pay ₹550 for CIBIL subscription. OneScore shows Experian score which is equally valid. I check mine every month.

    5

    ^Call the bank and request fee waiver. Most banks waive fees if you ask, especially if you have other cards with them or good payment history. I've kept my 7-year-old ICICI Amazon card alive with zero fees by calling them annually.

    1

    Question about hard inquiries: I applied for a car loan and the dealer sent my application to 4 different banks. Now I have 4 inquiries on the same day. Does this count as 4 separate hits or do they club auto loan inquiries together?

    4

    For people confused about which bureau to check - different banks report to different bureaus:

    CIBIL: Most common, especially PSU banks
    Experian: HDFC, Axis, Yes Bank prefer this
    Equifax: ICICI, Kotak use this sometimes

    Ideal is to check all three because they might have different data. I had a score difference of 70 points between CIBIL and Experian due to a reporting lag.

    1

    About credit mix - don't take a loan JUST for credit score. The 10% weightage is not worth paying interest on a loan you don't need. Better to just focus on the 35% (payment history) and 30% (utilization) factors.

    0
      Pro tip that saved me: Set calendar reminders for 1 year from now to check all 3 free reports:
    • CIBIL: January every year
    • Experian: May every year
    • Equifax: September every year

    This way you're monitoring throughout the year without paying anything.

    2

    The 'check before statement generation to show lower utilization' trick doesn't work with all banks. Some banks report mid-cycle, some report on statement date. HDFC reports on statement date, so paying before helps. ICICI reports mid-cycle randomly, so timing is harder. YMMV.

    1

    I'm surprised you didn't mention the 'Overdue Amount' column. That's critical too. Even if current balance is ₹50k, if overdue is ₹0, you're fine. But if overdue is ₹10k, that's a huge red flag even if you later paid it.

    1

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